Trans-Siberian so far

Here we are in Astana, Kazakhstan. Getting reliable internet throughout the trip has been a challenge, so this post will include all the travel up until this point, starting in Yaroslavl with their 1000 year anniversary (yes, 1000 years) and catching up to us in Astana, Kazakhstan.

I had the opporunity to travel here last summer with my father to iron out the details for this year’s ‘official trip’ of a delegation of Burlington, Vermont officials and residents, including Mayor Bob Kiss. Burlington and Yaroslavl have been sister cities since 1988 and have participated in many exchanges over the years.
Over the last year, Yaroslavl has done a fantastic job at fixing up, building new, and generally sprucing up the whole city in prepartion for the big celebration. I guess you only have one shot (no one wants to wait another 1000 years to have a party). Their hard work and preparation really paid off. The city looks great!

The Assumption Cathedral, originally built in stone in the early 1210s, was rebuilt in its current form in 2010.

A delicious Russian salad.

The new cathedral.

The new millenium park, built on the spit of land that was the original site of the city, founded by Yaroslavl the Great, slayer of the bear. The crest of the city is a bear holding a pole axe.

The mighty Volga river.

Volga river embankment. The best way to see the city is to stroll it’s tree lined streets.

One of many (many) old churches in Yaroslavl.

New houses on the other side of the Volga river.

Children play music to begin the ceremony to open the German Friendship house.

The official opening of the German Friendship house.

Most bridges have small locks covering their railings, left there by newly married couples.

The large cathedral and a restaurant/dance club on the Kotorosl River.

A large stain-glassed window portrays Valentina Vladimirovna Tereshkova, the first woman in space and Yaroslavl native.

The new, and almost completed space museum.

Alexei Leonov, the first person to leave the confines of a spaceship and float in space. Check out the ribbons.

A police man waits near the ceremony to open a new stretch of highway.

Burlington, Vermont Mayor Bob Kiss looks out the window during a marathon of opening ceremonies.

Price Yaroslavl the Wise (or Great), holding what locals joke to be a cake.

Media at the laying of flowers ceremony.

Our digs in Yaroslavl. Many thanks to Yuri and Victoria for making us feel right at home.

An old planetarium in downtown Yaroslavl.

The group from Burlington. We would meet up with them occasionally, as their schedule was jam-packed with official business and we happy to just walk the streets.

A concert to commemorate the millenium.

A dancer gets some serious air during the show.

Looking back at Yaroslavl from the far bank of the Volga.

Fireworks over the Volga.

Backyard bbq. We felt right at home.

Boys will be boys. Checking out Aleksander’s restored 1967 Russian Jeep.

Grilled pork.

Gathering under the tent. It was great to meet everyone and share some food and drink with them.

Adam and Victoria at the bbq.

And then the first train. Yaroslavl-Yeketerinburg. Only 24hrs…

2nd class berthes. Thankfully no one else was in our compartment. Trains are really a great way to travel long distances. There are no longer distances than in Russia. It’s mind boggling how far things are. Oh, it’s only 1000km to the next city, not that far.

Sunrise out the window.

Russian countriy side.

We spen the day in Yeketerinbug, a city of about 1.3 million. It’s centered around a river that’s been dammed to make small lake. It’s quite pleasant with a mix of old and new buildings.

I think they sell paper. Funy name though.

A line outside the ubiquitous kiosks.

With all the modern conveniences that have come to Russia, they still haven’t figured out how to make an elevator that can easily fit more than two people.

Crappy overpriced room in Yeketerinburg. Not worth the $82. I’ve had better rooms in dirty Asia.

The trains…not luxurious, but totally fine. We’ve been in 2nd class (four bunks), but it’s only been us…except this last train from Yeketerinburg to Astana where we got on the train, showed the helper guy our tickets, and he walked us to our seat, which seemed to be in 3rd class (open, no doors, loads of people). We made him double check the tickets and he kept saying ‘yes, these are your seats’, well, pointing and gesturing really. Ok, maybe we were on the ‘kupe’ train, (i.e. crap train). It was definitely an older train, so we just assumed that’s where we were. Kids everywhere, of course drawn to Adam. Cut to 4 hours later when everyone is getting ready for bed, and the mother and daughter who are ‘sharing’ our little area start to tuck themselves into our seats…hmm…back to the train guy who finally realizes he’s put us in the wrong car. A quick jog back a few cars got us back to an empty 2nd class berth for the remaining 20hrs. I must say, traveling by train (when in 1st or 2nd class) is quite pleasant. You can stand, sit, eat, drink, read, sleep, or stare out the window. The one issue comes when you get off the train and you have ‘train legs’, similar to sea legs.

Back on the train to Astana.

Assuming there would be a restaurant car like our last train (there wasn’t) we were ecstatic when an old lady came by with some delicious meats and treats.

Once we crossed the border at 5am into Kazakhstan, the next 12hrs looked like this. Vast is an understatment.

Adam sacked out in our compartment.

The wood/coal fired hot water dispenser.

A policeman with Adam after scolding us for having beer on the train (which we had bought hours earlier on the train).

And then finally we made it to Astana. Astana (emphasis on the last a, Astan-A) is a strange place. After riding the train for 12 hours from the border over totally flat, flat, flat, open fields, we enter this bizarre city that is basically brand new. There is an old (crappy soviet style) part, but the interesting part is the new side, which is basically like Dubai. A planned city of ridiculous buildings and parks, super cool architecture, new streets, etc. All built within the last 10 years. Really crazy. Of course with that comes expensive prices. Basically the same as home or higher. We had one of the guys drive us around yesterday in his Lexus (of course we over paid in the end), but it seems like this is a really nice city, a mix of Russians and Kazakhs living seemingly together without problems. The Kazakhs seem much more easy to smile and slightly more of the chaotic Asian feel that we’re used to, as opposed to the straight laced Russians who only smile after a long while (or copious amounts of drinks).

Apartment buidings. I couldn’t stop staring at the curves.

The pyramid for religious meetings.

The largest tent in the world. It’s a mall, but there’s a sandy beach and pool and the top floor that stays 35C all winter. Apparently is super eco friendly and doesn’t use much power for heat.

Inside the top of the Bayterek tower. Some think it looks like a champagne glass, and other have said it’s an all seeing eye. I prefer the later, as it seems there’s an attempt to create some sort of mythology surrounding this city and it’s country’s president. Combined with a pyramid (masonic temple) and a presidential palace that’s based on the White House, it’s like someone looked at a dollar and got some brilliant idea. Billions of dollars later and here we are.

Bayterek tower.

A sizzling platter of ram. Delicious. We passed on the horse, this time.

The central mosque in Astana. Most of the Kazakhs are muslim and practice a more modern form, only going to mosque once a week, not 5 times a day. The inside is exquisitly decorated.